In this section, I would like to take you step by
step, through the cell construction process. I have stated in
other sections of this book and I would like to also state here
that there are countless methods of constructing Orgone accumulators.
The method described here is based on the Joe cell construction
techniques. For a very comprehensive description of this type
of cell, I would presume that the reader has read, or has access
to, a copy of Barry Hilton's book, "How to run Your Car on
Zero Point Energy ". This book contains in words and diagrams
what Joe wanted the public to know about his cell. As such it
is essential reading.
Note. I have a
copy of the above book and recommend it to others, but!,
that does not imply that I agree with the theories or facts as
expressed by Barry and Joe. Nor does it imply that I promise you
that if you buy the above book, you will be able to " run
" your car, or even have a working cell. Simply stated, I
see Barry's book and my own, as pieces similar to the pieces of
others, in a jig saw puzzle. If you put all the pieces together,
you will understand the life force, or whatever else you want
to call it. You do not require all the pieces if you only want
to " run " a car, but the more pieces you have, the
greater is you understanding of the causes, not just the effects.
Thus the car will run for a longer period of time without mysterious
" down times ".
I am not interested, as established before, in arguing,
challenging, debating, competing, or defending my written notes
with any parties. I give you these notes freely as a pointer,
to show you a method of cell construction that works for me. If
you have something constructive to contribute, I will gladly alter
Right, with the preamble out of the way, lets get
to work. I will go through each step:
A. Parts list.
B. Selection of materials.
C. Machining operations.
A. Parts list.
The following parts lists, tie in with section D.
Common to all vats and cells, you will require lugs
that can fit over a ½ inch ( 12 mm. ) bolt, and multi strand
wire capable of flowing 10 Amps continuously, red for positive
and black for negative. You may want to purchase an in-line fuse
holder and a few 5 Amp fuses to suit.
A1. Charging vat. ( Optional item ).
This vat can be any suitable low paramagnetic food
grade steel container. A favourite with Joe and others is a stainless
steel beer keg. These seem to be plentiful,. but be wary of quality.
The seam welds are particularly paramagnetic. There is a story
of Joe testing about a hundred kegs before he found one that he
liked. Unless you are going to use the large cones, about 10 inches
( 250 mm. ) diameter, I see no useful purpose to have such a large
charging vat. Even if you employ it to fill up your radiator,
it is still a hell of a lot of water. I could see a use for one
as a shared club or group resource, but not for one individual.
I personally use a much smaller vat with an internal working height
of 11 inches and a diameter of 8 inches. This type of keg has
the advantage of not being seam welded horizontally half way up
the container. This is exactly where you do not want any magnetic
bands! My cone diameters are either 5.5 inches or 6 inches depending
on the scrap metal dealer.
So, you will need:
1 x Keg of your chosen size.
8 x Cones of chosen size.
1 x Nylon, or similar, central cone support rod.
8 x Nylon, or similar, spacer washers to suit cones and central support rod.
16 x Neoprene O-rings to suit central support rod
1 x 300 mm. long by 6 mm. diameter ( approx ) stainless steel support rod. ( Use horizontally across keg to hold central rod and cone assembly ).
1 x 1 meter long ( approx ), by 12 mm. wide stainless steel strap, approximately 1 mm. thick.
6 x Stainless steel pop rivets.
Note. If you just want
to get on with it, and you only want to charge your car cell,
you do not require a charging vat. Its main virtue is the quantity
of water and the ability to remove any scum from the top of the
water. Unfortunately, as you car cell is enclosed, this scum is
not so readily removed, but there is nothing to stop you
charging the water in your car cell, tipping out you stage 3 water
in a glass container, filtering this water and reintroducing it
back into you car cell. Anyway, if you use the methods described
in these notes, you will find that your scum will be at a minimum.
I have always charged my car cells as a stand alone unit, ie.
no charging vat. The advantages are that you know that the cell
and the water are okay and not just the water, as the case would
be, if you simply added the water out of your charging vat into
your car cell.
A2. 4 cylinder test cell.
The test cell is a vital piece of equipment that
you should make. It has two main functions: One, it is a training
aid for you while you are learning about the different stages
of charging the water. You will easily be able to observe the
different bubble types, surface tensions, deposits in the sump
and colloidals suspensions in the water. Two, you will be able
to fill it up with suspect water from you main car cell and test
to see if the water is still at stage 3. You do not have to be
Einstein to work out that your test cell container should be transparent.
You will need;
1 x Glass or clear ( not translucent ) acrylic container about 6 inches ( 150 mm. ) diameter by about 8 inches ( 200 mm. )tall. The container must have a lid!
1 x Set of 1 inch, 2 inch, 3 inch and 4 inch cylinders about 5 inches ( 125 mm ) long.
18 x ½ inch ( 12 mm. ) diameter by ½ inch long spacers.
1 x Approx. 10 inches ( 250 mm ) stainless steel strap as per charging vat parts list.
2 x Small stainless steel nuts and screws to secure the strap to the plastic or glass container.
2 x Stainless steel pop rivets.
1 x 1.5 feet ( 500 mm. ) of heat shrink tubing to fit over you stainless steel strap.
2 x Lower acrylic support combs, ( to be described
Note. If you use the glass
jar, you may want to insert the negative via a ½ inch ( 12
mm. ) stainless steel bolt via a hole that you drill through the
bottom of the jar. In that case, you will need a 3 inch ( 76 mm.
) stainless steel bolt, nut and washer, plus two Nylon or Teflon
machined washers where the bolt exits the glass container. The
extra effort may not be worth it unless you can get the parts
A3. 4 cylinder car cell.
The construction of the 4 cylinder and 5 cylinder
cells are the same except for the extra cylinder and 6 spacers.
Thus I will only describe the construction of the 5 cylinder cell.
If you want to make a 4 cylinder cell, follow the construction
of the 5 cylinder cell without the extra cylinder.
Note. The only reason
that I mention the 4 cylinder cell at all, is again due to the
myths that have developed in the " field ". Basically,
the story goes like this: It is rumoured that if you do not use
the charging vat, you can only charge and run you car with a 5
cylinder cell. You supposedly cannot charge you water with a 4
cylinder cell, only run you car on it. Joe also mentions in his
video that he thinks that the 4 cylinder may even run the car
better than the 5 cylinder cell. Personally, I have found that
you can charge both a 4 and a 5 cylinder cell and thus, they will
also run the car. As the leakage of a cell is determined by the
" layers " or number of concentric cylinders, the 5
layer cell is a better cell. I have found that a 5 cylinder cell
works much better for me and I really have nothing to recommend
the 4 cylinder cell for, except that it is a smaller cell. There
is still meagre feedback from constructors, so the jury is still
A4. 5 cylinder test cell.
This is my favourite configuration. My very first test cell was a glass 5 cylinder cell with 7 inch long cylinders. This cell has been in constant use now, for about 6 years, still not broken after countless dismantles and services. The insulators and cylinders after 6 years are as good as they were on day 1.
This cell uses the ½ inch bolt-through-the-bottom alternative.
The construction is the same as the 4 cylinder test
cell, with the addition of 6 extra spacers to support the extra
5 inch cylinder. That's it.
A5. 5 cylinder car cell.
This is the one, dear people. You either get this one right or end of Joe cell as reality and back to fantasy. This is the baby that has to seed and breed for you. This is the one that has to be reliable and sludge free. This is the one that people will judge your sanity on. If it does not work, you go down the path of all other failures and dreamers. Conversely, when you get it working, you will not be able to count all your new " friends ". They will all want one, just " like the wizard made ".
There are variations, I will give you my favourite
one, you will need:
1 x Set of hand selected, polished, clean, low paramagnetic, ( maybe heat treated ) 1 inch, 2 inch, 3 inch and 4 inch inner cylinders, of 8 inch length, or length very close to 8 inches, as calculated from own your calculations as per Chapter 7.
1 x 5 inch diameter outer cylinder, as above, but 10 inches long.
1 x Lower plate, one 5 inch thread, one 5 inch O-ring seal and one 5 inch nut to suit the above
outer casing. This is not of-the-shelf. You will need machine work to make the press fit
section. See diagram.
1 x Top cone. This is a standard 5 inch to 1 inch tube reducer. Apex angle to suit material but between 60 and 90 degrees and optimally 57 degrees for 316L stainless.
24 x ½ inch diameter by ½ inch long ebonite or similar spacers.
1 x 3 inch long by ½ inch diameter stainless steel bolt, nut and washer.
2 x Nylon or Teflon machined insulators for bolt exit.
1 x 1 inch ( 24 mm.) diameter compression fitting for your cell outlet. This outlet will be a right- angle or straight fitting depending on your individual requirement. This is where your 1 inch ( 24 mm. ) outside diameter aluminium engine pipe fits in.
1 x A suitable length of 1 inch outside diameter ( 24 mm. ) aluminium tube for your cell to engine blind plug fitting. ( My tube has a 20 mm. inside diameter but this is not critical ).
1 x 1 inch ( 24 mm. ) long, ½ inch ( 13 mm. ) inside diameter stainless steel tube. This slips over the stainless steel bolt and holds the inner cylinders clear of the bottom
3 x Acrylic combs to support the inner cylinders.
Optional, to be described later.
Note. All components should
have the minimum paramagnetic field possible. Your test magnet
can be slightly attracted, but must not stick and support its
own weight! All parts are to be cleansed in mild vinegar or acetic
acid that has been added to juvenile water. Do not leave finger
prints on any stainless steel surface.
Regarding heat treating, as the Curie point of most
stainless steel is 800F and higher, our heat treatment must exceed
this temperature. Two methods that work are:
1. Local advice from a
Melbourne heat treatment operator: he suggests to place the material
in an oven at 1200F for three hours in a Nitrogen gas, then reduce
the temperature slowly to atmospheric over twelve hours.
2. TM Technology, ( http://.www.tinmantech/html/faq_stainless_working_joe-c.html
) suggest 800F to 1200F for ½ to 2 hours.
B. Selection of material.
Material selection can be broken down into:
B1. Stainless steel cylinders and cones or domes.
A vast amount of good advice and pure drivel has
been written on this subject. So much so, that I had cell builders
from USA telling me that the right grade 316l stainless steel
is unobtainable over there, and Australia is the only place that
is can be sourced from! I have also been told by " experts
" that this steel can only be made in the Southern Hemisphere
( due to the Earth's magnetic field rotation, ) and that is why
the Joe cell only works in Australia and New Zealand! When I tell
them that I cannot afford to buy new steel and obtain most of
my stock via scrap metal dealers from dismantled American and
British food machinery, they then think I am hiding the truth
from them and that I am somehow refusing to show them the "
secrets " of the cell design. What can you do with some people?
So, where do we go to get this " unobtanium " material? Where is the line between fact and fiction?
First of all, let's go to the start of Joe and his
cell designs. You would have noticed historically that he used
plastic and stainless steel in his designs and, irrespective of
the material used, ALL types of cells worked for
him. So it does not have to be stainless steel at all!
As I will show in a later book, stainless steel is really quite
a lousy material, but will suffice for this cell. However, as
people, including Joe, experimented with various chemicals, they
discovered that some stainless steels had three main advantages;
namely, it formed a good pressure container, it was impervious
to the majority of chemicals and it was " non-magnetic ".
I will list some of the " non-magnetic "
stainless steel, but please note that all stainless steel will
be magnetic to some slight degree:
AISI 304. Used in dairy,
textile, dyeing and chemical industries for containers subject
to different types of corrosive conditions.
AISI 316. Parts for chemical
and food plants, wearable for high temperature.
AISI 316L. As for 316,
but with superior corrosion resistance when exposed to many types
of chemical corrosives, as well as marine atmospheres. It also
has superior creep strength at elevated temperatures.
AISI 310. Furnace parts,
radiant tubes, annealing boxes and heat treatment fixtures.
AISI 410. Cooking utensils,
turbine blades, coal screens and pump rods.
AISI 420. For the automobile
and aircraft industry. Components such as valves, pistons, and
nuts and bolts.
AISI 431. Parts requiring
highest strength and rust resistance.
Now, for reasons that I do not fully understand,
the Joe cell fraternity has decided that only 316L
will do. I have proved over and over that this is a myth. Not
only that, I would challenge any builder to pick 316L stainless
from similar grades at a scrap metal dealer! What we are looking
for are cylinders, cones and domes that have the least remanent
paramagnetism. This is easily checked by taking your faithful
rare earth magnet to your metal dealer. My magnet is only 5 mm.
diameter by 3 mm thick and is attached to a convenient length
of fishing line. By swinging the magnet near the stainless steel
you will easily see how paramagnetic the steel is. Especially
check the longitudinal or spiral seam welding. The magnet will
be attracted to the seam, but reject the material if weld seam
is discoloured for more than ¼ of an inch ( 6 mm. ), or it
is a different thickness to the rest of the metal, or the magnet
sticks and stays there supporting its own weight.
* Always have a keeper on your test magnet when you
carry it in you pocket, as it just loves to " wipe out "
credit cards and similar magnetic stripe products!
* Do not use a ferrite magnet! similar
to the easily obtainable round speaker magnets that every experimenter
has in abundance. These are nowhere near strong enough and you
will be deluded into thinking that you have found " Joe cell
steel heaven ", as the stainless steel will pass your magnetic
If you plan to heat treat you cell components after
all machining and welding operations, the selection process does
not have to be quite so rigorous. I personally would get the least
paramagnetic steel anyway, as it is no extra in a scrap dealer
and you may not have to heat treat the completed cell.
* If you are buying new stainless stock be prepared for some awfully dodgy 316L stainless.
It seems to vary tremendously with the country of
origin. I have found that certified stainless in a plastic wrappers
and with '316L' written longitudinally and repetitively along
the whole length is generally fine. You will find that when you
spin a good piece in a lathe and gently hold it with your hand,
a good piece will feel " round ", but with a bad piece,
you will feel longitudinal ripples. Similarly when you are cutting
a piece of genuine 316L you will hear a ringing and the saw will
be really working to cut it. I have cut some so-called 316L that
cuts like butter! Believe me, real 316L is a bitch to work with.
Summary of the above. Since 316L is " the best
", try to buy some certified 316L stock. Try to buy some
seamless tube if you can. Do not buy any on some salesperson's
guarantee that it is non-magnetic. Test it! If they will
cut it free of charge, see how they cut it and get it cut at least
1 inch, ( 25 mm. ) oversize. Usually a top supplier will charge
about a $1.00 a cut with a liquid cooled band saw. In such a case,
you do not require a large waste margin, a ¼ inch will do
for you truing operation on the lathe. Make sure that there are
no dents or major scratches in the sections that you purchase.
The cones are usually an off-the-shelf reducer and
you should have no problems in getting what you want ( except
for price ). The cones normally have seam welds, so check these.
You can also get of-the-shelf, any compression fitting, flange,
thread, blanking cap, bolts, nuts and washer. What you can buy
is only limited by the size of your wallet All certified stock,
even the washers, will have '316' written or stamped into the
component. If you are using dome ends of varying geometrical configurations,
you will have to have them hand beaten or spun to you dimensions.
I don't have to tell you that anything to do with stainless is
expensive. Think about it three times and buy once only! Consider
carefully what cone angle you want to use. For example, a cone
reducer from 5 inches to 1 inch can be made in many different
angles. Do not assume, that because the end holes are the correct
diameter, that this automatically makes the optimum cone angle.
B2. Insulation material and cylinder spacers.
The insulation material that is used where the ½
inch ( 12.5 mm. ) bolt exits the lower cell fitting is not that
critical. I have used Nylon, Teflon and similar polypropylene
and polycarbonates. They all work fine. Find a plastics supplier
and rummage through his bin of rod offcuts, or if that fails,
you will have to buy some. The colour is not important. I use
a white or off white as a preference. Teflon is by far the best,
if you can afford it. I do not use it. I buy 2 inch ( 50 mm. )
greasy Nylon rod that is far cheaper and that I machine to my
The insulators between the cylinders are a different story. These tend to have deposits formed on them over a long ( over 6 months ) period of time. The can also crack or loose their elasticity causing the cylinders to move, or they will disintegrate or turn to jelly. When I first started on this project, I copied Joe and used rubber " counter hose " as found on the roads in that era for traffic monitoring. This hose material is no longer in use, and there was really nothing special about it, just handy as it was always laying around on some road or other < grin >.
As my cell design developed, I started matching my materials with the Orgone polarity. I found sulphur based product ideal for the acid cell, so now I use ½ inch ( 12 mm. ) ebonite rod. I am not telling you to start using ebonite rod, only that it is a suitable spacer. Ebonite rod is quite cheap eg. ½
inch diameter by a meter long is about AUS $6.00. In Melbourne you can obtain it from E. C. Menzies Pty. Ltd., 19 Ewing St. Brunswick. Phone is (03) 9387-5544. As purchased, this rod is not polished and you could polish it with fine wet and dry emery paper if you so wish.
You can also use 100% silicon thick wall tubing,
or red rubber chemical corks of the right size as recommended
by Barry Hilton. I have tried a mixed set of the above in one
cell to see which would fail first. I discovered that after 6
months both the silicon tubing and the rubber corks lost some
elasticity and although the cylinders had not slipped, in a four
wheel drive, rough terrain application, there would have been
some problems. A neutral and superior spacer can be machined from
Teflon rod and it works very well.
B3. Cell to motor tube.
This one is nice and quick. I have stuck to 1 inch
( 24 mm. ) outer diameter aluminium tube, with a wall thickness
of 1/16 of an inch, ( about 1.6 mm. ) so the inside diameter is
20 mm. It is readily obtainable, reasonably easy to bend, electrically
conductive and works well as a guide for Orgone. I standardise
on 1 inch ( 25 mm. ) outer tube diameter for all the cells that
I make and supply and thus the cells are interchangeable for fault
finding and performance checking. I would strongly suggest that
the bigger groups involved in cell design, should agree to a set
of standards for cell design that are mutually agreed to world
wide. This would allow mass production of cells with the related
advantage of cost cutting and uniformity. Other diameter of tubes
and materials can be used, there is no rigid rule. If you find
something that works for you and it is readily obtainable and
cheap, please let me know so that I can add it as an update to
this manual. For example, I have used normal clear plastic water
tubing, covered it with aluminium foil and then I have heat shrunk
a plastic sleeve over the lot to give it strength. Not as good
as solid aluminium, but easy to form and easy to make when you
have no access to solid aluminium tube.
So there you have it for the materials. Low component
count, therefore simple and close to Nature.
C. Machining operations.
Machining operations can be broken down into;
C1. Cutting operations.
This is one of the important steps in cell construction.
As previously stated, any high speed cutting at the steel supplier's
premises will probably involve the creation of heat. Any colour
change due to heat in the cutting operation must
be removed from the final length of the component. That is why
I suggested the oversize margin in B1. If the tube is cut with
a liquid cooled bimetallic blade or at low feed speeds with a
metal cutting disk, you will not see any colour change whatsoever!
When I cut my tubing at home, I simply use a 4 inch ( 100 mm.
) angle grinder in a cutting attachment and slowly rotate the
tube as I cut the steel. There is no colour change and I can cut
my tubes so close to the finished size that the lathe work is
only a truing operation. As mentioned above, I true the tubes
and match for length at slow speed in the lathe. The final matching
of the cylinders is done by holding a metal ruler across the tops
of two cylinders. You should see no light under any of the four
contact spots. I match all my cylinders starting at the 1 inch
one and work outwards.
This is not a difficult operation. I use about 400
grade emery paper and whilst the part is rotating in the lathe,
I polish the internal and external tube surfaces. Do not polish
to leave cross hatch marks, ie. do not move your emery paper laterally
back wards and forwards at speed. Make you lateral traverses slowly.
That's it, no mysterious techniques.
I have my parts either Tig, Mig or plain old oxy
acetylene welded with 316L rod or wire. Again no mysterious techniques,
just a good welder.
C4. Insulators and spacers.
I turn my chosen spacer material on the lathe. I
cut off my ebonite rod or Teflon to ½ inch ( 12 mm. ) lengths
on the lathe. Ditto, no mysteries.
As you can see, there is no laser cutting or matching
to angstrom units for part dimensions. Nor is there any submerged
welding by highly qualified aircraft experts. All operation can
be performed by a handyman or the nearest machine shop.
C5. Press fit operations.
I sometimes press fit components. At all times, as
a result of the press fit process, I make sure that I have no
change in internal dimension and the press fit is exactly that,
ie. not a finger push fit. I clean and " pickle " the
surface prior to the press fit operation for about 15 minutes
and then wash off the chemicals in juvenile water. On the external
side of the press fit, I deposit a ring of 24 hour Araldite to
guard against any weepage of electrolyte. The adhesive you, use
whatever it is, must not be accessible to the internal working
of the cell, otherwise it will deposit itself all over the cylinders
and insulators and diminish or " kill " cell operation.
The following options are possible;
D1. Construction of a charging vat.
The options are related to the cone diameters As explained in A1, I make the small charging vats; Joe, Barry and others make the large ones that use 10 inch ( 250 mm. ) cones. There are variations in the quantity of cones, as used by Joe, and this is covered in detail in Barry's book. I prefer to use 8 cones, 1 reflector, 1 positive, 2 negative and 4 " spacers ". There are also variations in the support method of the cones. I prefer the central Nylon rod. Others prefer spacers between all the cones around the periphery of adjacent cones and an agricultural pipe up the middle of the cones ( see Barry's book).
As mentioned previously, unless you are after a vast
quantity of charged water or have scum problems, you will not
D2. Construction of 4 cylinder test cell.
You can have the outer container made from glass
or acrylic ( Perspex ), but in all cases, make sure it is clear.
The other variation is in the method of extracting the negative,
either with a stainless steel strap out the top, or with a stainless
steel bolt out the bottom. Again, it is up to you. The bolt out
the bottom is a pain, as the container now has to be supported
by a suitable stand. Also, the bolt method introduces further
costs. For a test cell, it is not mandatory to use a bolt entry
from the bottom of the cell.
D3. Construction of 4 cylinder car cell.
See notes for 5 cylinder car cell.
D4. Construction of 5 cylinder test cell.
See notes for 4 cylinder test cell.
D5. Construction of 5 cylinder car cell.
The variations are quite numerous. The obvious ones are the composition of the spacers and insulators. This I have covered and will not repeat.
We have a choice in the way that we " join " the outer cylinder with the cones or domes or plates .
We have a choice in the support mechanism for the inner cylinders.
We have a choice in the geometric shape of our top and bottom " covers ".
We have a choice in the way that we attach the ½ inch bolt to the 1 inch tube.
We have a choice in the outlet fitting type.
E1. Charging vat.
There are several versions of the charging vat. There is a thorough coverage by Barry Hilton in his book. I suggest that the reader has a look and then they can decide which version they want to build.
Either way, apart from size and some minor details,
the vats are very similar. The one that I am about to describe
is my version and matches the previous part list. I will keep
this section brief, on the assumption that you have seen Barry's
book. As you can see, the photos make the construction quite clear.
E1a. I will mention a few pointers that may be not
clear from the photographs:
* Remove the metal mandrel head out of the pop rivets
as the remanent head is not stainless steel and will be magnetic
and will rust.
* The stainless steel strap from the two negative
cones must not be cut, and thus is one continuous length ( as
described in Barry's book ).
* The function of the O rings, is to allow the gasses
liberated by electrolysis to pass via the irregularly cut central
holes of the cones. You place one O-ring on each side of the Nylon
spacers. So the order would be, one cone, one O-ring, one Nylon
spacer, one O-ring and finally the next cone and so on with the
next O-ring, etc. until you complete the cone stack.
As you can see, I have left this section very brief
on the assumption that most readers will not build a charging
vat, or if they did, there is sufficient information above if
you study the photos.
E2. 4 cylinder test cell.
I will not cover this test cell, as it is the same
as the 5 cylinder test cell, minus one cylinder.
E3 4 cylinder car cell.
I will not cover this car cell, as it is the same as the 5 cylinder car cell, minus one cylinder.
I have however, provided ample photographic views
of the construction.
E4. 5 cylinder test cell.
E4a. The 5 cylinder test cell is similar to the 5
cylinder car cell as described in E5 below. When you complete
you 5 cylinder sub-assembly as per E5c, palace it to one side
and proceed with next step.
E4b. Have somebody drill the appropriate size hole
in the bottom of the jar to match the stepped washer as per E5e.
I drill my own hole in the glass, using the right size outer diameter
copper tube. I attach this copper tube in a slowly rotating vertical
drill and lubricate the copper cutting edge with a mixture of
kerosene and fine valve grinding compound. The grinding compound
can be obtained from any motor accessory shop. Go nice and easy,
and frequently add new cutting paste. Haste means a broken jar,
so do not say I did not warn you. When finished, dispose of the
ground glass, paste, etc. in a safe way.
E4c. Assemble cylinder sub-assembly to glass jar
as per car cell assembly. Do not over-tighten the nut! Fill with
juvenile water, test for leaks, etc.
E5. 5 cylinder car cell.
E5a. Rather than covering the construction of Mark
1, Mark 2, mark 3, etc. types of cell, I will cover the construction
of a 5 cylinder that I consider as the " best " of the
simple type of Orgone accumulators that we have called the Joe
cell. I cannot see any value in covering the other variants of
simple type of 5 cylinder cells, only to tell you at the end to
build the one I am about to describe.
E5b. Make sure that you hands are not oily and re-check
that all cylinders are clean. Obtain a kitchen cutting board or
a piece of MDF or chip-board or any smooth and level surface will
do. We will assemble the cell upside down on this flat surface,
as this will ensure that the finished cell will be flat across
the tops of the cylinders, ie. the side that is on the flat surface
( as this is the critical area! ). As your cylinders will not
be perfectly identical in length, this method will also place
the irregularities towards the bottom of the cell, where it is
not as important.
* The first step is to prepare our ½ bolt, so
that the hexagon head is a tight press fit into one end of the
1 inch cylinder. A minimum amount is ground or turned to off from
the hexagon head so that the bolt head is a tight interference
fit inside the tube. I have seen bolts with unaltered heads hammered
into the pipe. Depending on the bolt, this caused the tube to
assume a hexagonal appearance where the bolt head was forced into
the tube. It still works okay, but it is not aesthetically pleasing.
If you perform the task correctly, there will be a minimum of
distortion to the outside of the tube and the water will be able
to flow easily in and out the tube via the hexagonal flats of
the bolt head, as they are not touching the inside walls of the
* The head of the bolt is pressed into the tube until
the bottom of the head is in the tube by ¼ of an inch or
6 mm. See diagram and picture. If you look through the tube you
must see adequate clearance for water flow. On the bolts I use,
when I finish the lathe work, all the hexagon shape is removed
and I have to grind 3 slots in the head with my angle grinder
to provide channels for water flow. When you roll the 1 inch tube
on a flat surface the bolt shaft should roll with no wobble. This
verifies that you have pressed the bolt head squarely into the
tube. It is easy to drive some bolts into the tube and not keep
it concentric-centric with the tube. The end result is that the
whole inner cylinder assembly will be askew and interfere with
the proper seeding of the cell.
E5c. Now take your 1 inch tube and place it upright
on your assembly board, with ( obviously ) the bolt toward your
face. Remember that the flat board end of the tube will finish
up as the top of the inner cylinder assembly. Take you 2 inch
tube, slip it over the 1 inch tube and position it so that there
is an equal gap between the 2 inch and the 1 inch tube. As you
build up your inner cylinder assembly you will repeat this step
with you 3 inch and 4 inch tubes.
* Take 3 of you chosen ½ inch (12 mm. ) long
insulating spacers and force them into the gap between the tubes
at 120 degree spacing. Push your insulating spacers into the tube
until they are below the tube edge by ¼ of an inch ( 6 mm.
). As I use ½ inch ebonite spacers, I have to file a flat
to reduce the overall diameter of the ebonite before I press fit
them into the tube. I place this longitudinal flat towards the
convex or outer cylinder surface for best friction fit. If you
use Teflon or Nylon rod, you will have to machine this tolerance
factor into you rod diameter before you cut it up into you ½
inch spacers. Naturally, this problem does not exist with rubber
hose or any other malleable material. You will find that if you
use a malleable material, with time, your cylinders will sag and
you will lose your critical level top line-up from inner cylinder
to inner cylinder. In that case, I would suggest that you make
a supporting comb assembly under the cylinders to support them.
I have made these out of Perspex ( acrylic ) and they resemble
a comb with the teeth facing upwards. The cylinders fit in the
roots of these teeth, with the teeth spacing being the gap between
adjacent cylinders. Please be wary of the type and quantity of
acrylic that you use. Several experimenters have found that some
grades of acrylic can short circuit the cylinders if used for
separators or support medium. Avoid acrylic and similar materials
until you become more proficient with cell characteristics.
* You now reverse your 1 inch tube and do the above,
for the top 3 insulators. As the bolt body is obviously in you
way when you try to place the tube on your flat surface, you will
have to drill a ½ inch hole in your assembly board. I hope
that it is not your wife's or girlfriends chopping board or bread
board! So now the finished product is a 2 inch cylinder supported
by 3 top and 3 bottom spacers with a dead flat relative top surface.
* The above procedure is repeated for your 2 inch
to 3 inch tubes, and your 3 inch to 4 inch tubes. I find that
for the 3 inch to 4 inch tubes, it is better to use 4 insulators
at each end for a total of 8 instead of 6 inter tube spacers.
The reason is that the larger diameter of the 4 inch tube now
allows considerable flexure and 3 insulators at each end are not
enough for a firm fit.
* There is no magic in the alignment of inter tube
insulator line-up. Some perfectionists insist in having 3 radial
lines ( as in three spokes of a bicycle wheel ), radiating out
from the center, with 120 degree spacing. I have not found this
critical. You now have a inner tube cylinder sub-assembly completed.
The last step is to put the assembly back on your flat surface
with the eventual working top down, and the bolt pointing up towards
you. Now with a wooden or rubber mallet, gently tap all the cylinder
edges, as to force the eventual top surface to be perfectly flat.
Great, put this sub assembly to one side and let's move on.
E5d. To assemble the outer case of the cell, the
following welding and machining operations are required:
* Have your top cone to compression fitting welded
together. I would suggest that your compression fitting is designed
for 1 inch ( 24 mm. ) outer diameter tube. This way, all club
members or larger groups will be able to interchange cells as
a help with car conversions. After the above welding, remove any
" dags " that resulted from the welding operation. Grind
and polish this junction, so that the internal transition from
cone to outlet fitting is as smooth as you can achieve, without
ridiculous fastidiousness. Check that the joint is water tight.
* Press fit your modified thread to one end of the
5 inch cylinder, making sure that the 5 inch cylinder protrudes
slightly below this male thread, so there is metal to metal contact
with the lower cap when it is assembled and the 5 inch nut is
done up . This step must also allow reasonable compression of
the O-ring. See pictures.
* Have the cone welded to the other end of the 5
inch cylinder. As in the step above make sure that the transition
from cone to outer cylinder is smooth on the inside. Check that
the joint is water tight.
* At this stage, have you outer assembly heat treated
to remove the paramagnetism from the welding operation. I do not
do this, I use the unit as it ends up after welding and the cell
works okay, but to guarantee the success of your cell, I would
strongly recommend the heat treatment step. When the unit come
back from the heat treatment people, lightly repolish the outside
and inside. Also, at this stage, run a bead of 24 hour Araldite,
or similar, over the outside only junction of the pressed
thread ring and the 5 inch cylinder. This will ensure that you
will not have any slight electrolyte weepage from the press fit.
This completes the outer case construction. Place it next to you
completed inner cylinder assembly and lets move on.
E5e. All that is left to do is to complete the lower
cap and ½ inch bolt support system. In the middle of the
lower cap, you will need a hole that is ½ inch ( 12 mm. )
greater in diameter than the shaft diameter of the bolt. So for
example, if your bolt shaft was ½ inch diameter, you would
drill a 1 inch hole in the lower cap plate. This allows a ¼
inch ( 6 mm.) gap that will be filled up by your inner insulating
* You now require a 1 inch ( 25 mm. ) length of thin
wall tubing that you push onto the bolt until it touches the lower
edge of the bolt head. Make sure that the outer diameter of this
sleeve tube is not so large that it blocks the water flow in and
out of the 1 inch cylinder.
* The next step is to make 2 washers from Nylon,
Teflon, etc. The inner washer will be stepped ( see photo ). The
smaller diameter step will have a 1 inch outer diameter and deep
enough to be nearly as thick as the cap material thickness. The
outer diameter of this stepped washer is not critical, so about
1.5 inches will do .The thickness of this larger diameter matches
the distance that the bolt is inserted inside the 1 inch tube.
So, ¼ inch ( 6 mm. ) is required in our example. This will
result in the inner cylinder assembly being 1 inch above the lower
cap. This insulator has a central hole drilled through it to exactly
match the shaft diameter of the chosen bolt. A tight fit here
will minimise and water loss down the bolt and thus out of the
cell. The insulator that is on the bolt on the outside of the
lower cap is easier to make. Make it about ¼ inch ( 6 mm.
) thick and 1.5 inches wide. The hole in the center is again made
to match the shaft diameter of the bolt.
E5f. Now assemble the inner cylinder assembly to
the lower cap plate. With clean hands, place the inner cylinder
assembly top down, bolt up, on your flat plate. If not already
done, slip your 1 inch long spacer sleeve onto the bolt. Next
apply Vaseline ( petroleum jelly ), liberally all over the bolt
shaft and inner washer. Place the inner washer onto the bolt so
that the smaller diameter step is facing you and liberally cover
this step with more Vaseline. Now place the lower cap onto the
bolt the right way round, so that the 1 inch step of the inner
insulator fits into the 1 inch hole of the lower cap. Again liberally
apply Vaseline on the outer insulator and slip this over the bolt.
Next, put you washer, electrical lug and nut on the bolt ( see
photo ). Tighten the nut more than hand tight but not excessively.
Check your handiwork, make sure you remove excess Vaseline also
ensuring you do not get any on the cylinders or over the inside
of the cap plate.
E5g. Take you outer casing, Vaseline the O-ring and
sit it in the groove of the 5 inch male thread. Lower your completed
inner assembly and make sure that the lower cap plate fits snugly
into the 5 inch outer tube, without disturbing the O-ring. Take
your 5 inch nut and screw it on the thread. Use reasonable force
to do the nut up.
E5h. Fill the cell up right to the top with juvenile
water and leave it overnight in an area or surface where you will
be able to see any leaks. If there were no leaks, pour out the
water and give yourself a pat on the back. Why? Because you are
finished. You can now insert fresh juvenile water to the correct
level and start your charging operations. Good going!
The contents of Joe cell chapters
What is the Joe cell
Some Properties of orgone
Some names for the life force
Theory of Cell Design
materials and design
Sizes and diameters
Water types and relations to cells
Charging the water cell
Connectioning to motors
When Things go wrong
Some Readers contributions
Brotherhood of Man A Joe cell parts supplier
index page where the contents of these chapters came fom